The Essaouira Guide.
Traditional wooden fishing boats in the harbor.
Essaouira is a traveler's refuge. This laidback, windswept town on the Atlantic offers quiet hideaways, cozy riads and traditional Moroccan fare. It’s the perfect pit stop on a Moroccan road trip south. Highlights include slurping down freshly shucked oysters on the docks, negotiating for artisan crafts in the medina—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—and evening cocktails on the roof at Taros Cafe. Here’s how to enjoy a weekend.
What to do
If you brought a car to Essaouira, take a morning or an afternoon and head out to Coopérative Marjana, a women's argan oil co-op on the outskirts of town (15km away on the road to Marrakech). Learn how argan oil is made, try your hand at cracking the shells while chatting with the women, and pick up treats like homemade soap or 'amlou in the co-op store to bring home.
Once you finish up at Coopérative Marjana, get back on the road to Marrakech and drive another 10km to the Val d'Argan winery, which grows 13 grape varieties from the Rhône Valley. (The vineyard is located on the N1, just past Ounara, and there will be a sign on your right.) The winery offers free tastings daily as well as a three-course prix-fixe lunch.
One of the busiest times to visit Essaouira is in June when it plays host to the renowned Gnaoua festival. This four-day music extravaganza can be a little overwhelming (several of the performances are free so crowds are vast), but ultimately quite spirited and fun.
Essaouira’s 18th century ramparts are flanked by vintage canons and guard towers.
Fancy a glide across the water? Explora Watersports will teach you everything you need to know about kite surfing (and provide rentals, too) on Essaouira’s town beach. The best time of year to surf is from the end of March through the end of November with summer having the most consistent wind.
Shopping
Unlike the old cities of Fes and Marrakech, the medina in Essaouira is smaller and easier to navigate. Berber rugs, ceramics, spices and everything in between are on offer. Don’t be afraid to haggle—that’s part of the fun!
Essaouira has a long sandy beach that's typically too windy for sunbathing, but makes the perfect setting for a sunrise or pre-sunset stroll. If you do decide to hang out for the day, it's worth renting a beach chair (40dh) so you're able to use the bathrooms and order drinks at the cafe across the way.
where to dine
Oysters + Fish Stalls
To experience Essaouira like a local, head to the port off the main square, Place Moulay Hassan. Nothing beats a freshly shucked oyster with a squeeze of lemon with the lapping waves of the Atlantic in the background. Wander your way through the port until you reach the fish stalls at the end. Check out the fresh catch of the day, grab a seat, and nibble on bread and fresh salad as you wait for your fish to be grilled. A great spot for groups, though tourists tend to get ripped off. Expect to pay about 40-70dh for your meal.
This gelateria has some of the best ice cream I've tasted in Morocco—and that’s saying something after over a year in country. The chocolate is particularly divine.
Get ready for a fun evening out because the late night scene at Caravane Cafe does not disappoint! Sophisticated cuisine and hand crafted cocktails accompanied by entertainment involving belly dancing and live fire. Request a table downstairs to catch the show.
This hidden gem combines French technique with Mediterranean flavor and locally sourced seafood, perfect for a date night out.
Avocado toast, chia pudding, buddha bowls and quesadillas make this cafe an ex-pat haven and a welcome respite from traditional Moroccan fare. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Calling all adventurous eaters! Triskala puts a unique spin on local delicacies with oyster tartare and sardine meatball tajine. Vegetarians will delight in dishes like the beet carpaccio and tasting of five tomatoes. Menus change daily.
Reservations are suggested at this contemporary, fine dining institution. Lobster, duck and smoked salmon grace the menu alongside sole, squid and shrimp.
Goats climbing the argan trees on the outskirts of Essaouira.
WHERE TO DRINK
Pop by this casual beach bar in the late afternoon for a cold beer.
If the rooftop at Taros is too cold or noisy for your taste, head over to Riad al Khansaa and enjoy a cocktail while reading a book or playing a game of chess. The house caipirinha, double the size of your average cocktail, is worth the trip over.
When you're feeling spent after a day wandering around the medina, head over to Taros for cocktail hour. There's live music most nights and plenty of seating to go around on the rooftop terrace. Don't be timid about dining al fresco on chilly evenings—they'll gladly give you a blanket upon request!
Colorful trawlers docked in Essaouira’s harbor.
Where To Stay
Colorful artwork adorns the white-washed walls of this charming guest house where friendly staff will make you feel at home. In the summer, enjoy lounging on the rooftop terrace and the views of the sea. Rates from $49 including breakfast.
The water views, personal touches and attention from owner Isabelle may make you want to hole up in your room all weekend. Rates from $110 including breakfast.
Looking for a more traditional hotel stay? This Relais & Châteaux property tucked away in the medina includes five room categories (including family suites), a panoramic heated swimming pool, traditional hammam and extensive breakfast buffet daily. Rates from $180.
The ultra romantic Hayate Suite. Image via Riad Chbanate.
A renovated riad that showcases the best of Moroccan architecture and design with tadelakt, terracotta and cedar wood ceilings. The top floor Panoramic Suite has a charming private terrace. Rates from $135 including breakfast.
A luxury boutique riad in the heart of Essaouira with five rooms, a rooftop hot tub and traditional hammam. We love each of the room’s open fireplaces and sleek tadelakt walls, complemented by neutral color palettes and oversized marble baths. Rates from $125 including breakfast.
This calming retreat 15 minutes outside of Essaouira is home to seven large bedrooms, gardens, terraces and a swimming pool. Expect exposed stone walls, terracotta floors and authentic decor. Rates from $150.
A room with a view. Image via Villa Anouk.
