The Essaouira Guide

Traditional wooden fishing boats in the harbor.

Essaouira is a traveler’s refuge—a laidback, windswept town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that invites you to slow down. With its tangle of quiet alleyways, cozy riads, and traditional Moroccan fare, it’s the perfect stop on a southern road trip through the country.

Spend your days slurping freshly shucked oysters straight from the docks, browsing artisan goods in the medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and sipping rooftop cocktails at Taros Café as the sun sets over the sea.

Whether you're passing through or settling in for a few restful days, here’s how to make the most of a weekend in Essaouira.

What to do

Coopérative Marjana: If you brought a car to Essaouira, take a morning or an afternoon and head out to Coopérative Marjana, a women's argan oil co-op on the outskirts of town (15km away on the road to Marrakech). Learn how argan oil is made, try your hand at cracking the shells while chatting with the women, and pick up treats like homemade soap or 'amlou in the co-op store to bring home.

Domaine du Val d'Argan: Once you finish up at Coopérative Marjana, get back on the road to Marrakech and drive another 10km to the Val d'Argan winery, which grows 13 grape varieties from the Rhône Valley. (The vineyard is located on the N1, just past Ounara, and there will be a sign on your right.) The winery offers free tastings daily as well as a three-course prix-fixe lunch.

Gnaoua Music Festival: One of the busiest times to visit Essaouira is in June when it plays host to the renowned Gnaoua festival. This four-day music extravaganza can be a little overwhelming (several of the performances are free so crowds are vast), but ultimately quite spirited and fun.

Essaouira’s 18th century ramparts are flanked by vintage canons and guard towers.

Kite Surfing: Fancy a glide across the water? Explora Watersports will teach you everything you need to know about kite surfing (and provide rentals, too) on Essaouira’s town beach. The best time of year to surf is from the end of March through the end of November with summer having the most consistent wind.

Shopping: Unlike the old cities of Fes and Marrakech, the medina in Essaouira is smaller and easier to navigate. Berber rugs, ceramics, spices and everything in between are on offer. Don’t be afraid to haggle—that’s part of the fun!

Town Beach: Essaouira has a long sandy beach that's typically too windy for sunbathing, but makes the perfect setting for a sunrise or pre-sunset stroll. If you do decide to hang out for the day, it's worth renting a beach chair (40dh) so you're able to use the bathrooms and order drinks at the cafe across the way.

where to dine

Oysters + Fish Stalls: To experience Essaouira like a local, head to the port off the main square, Place Moulay Hassan. Nothing beats a freshly shucked oyster with a squeeze of lemon with the lapping waves of the Atlantic in the background. Wander your way through the port until you reach the fish stalls at the end. Check out the fresh catch of the day, grab a seat, and nibble on bread and fresh salad as you wait for your fish to be grilled. A great spot for groups, though tourists tend to get ripped off. Expect to pay about 40-70dh for your meal.

Caffetteria Dolcefreddo: This unassuming Italian gelateria, tucked away near the main square, is a must-visit for dessert lovers. After over a year of tasting sweets across Morocco, I can confidently say Dolcefreddo serves up some of the creamiest, most decadent ice cream in the country. Their chocolate gelato is a standout—rich, velvety, and deeply flavorful, like a frozen truffle in a cone. With a rotating selection of both classic and seasonal flavors, it’s the perfect mid-afternoon treat after a day exploring the medina.

Caravane Cafe: Part art gallery, part restaurant, part theatrical cabaret, Caravane Café is pure sensory indulgence. The whimsical décor alone is worth the visit—Moroccan antiques, surrealist paintings, and glowing lanterns. But the real draw is the lively evening scene, complete with belly dancers, live fire performances, and music. The menu fuses global influences with Moroccan ingredients, with dishes like seared duck breast with orange glaze or fragrant lamb tagine with prunes. If you can, request a table downstairs where the entertainment takes place.

Madada Mogador: Tucked behind an unmarked door near the port, Madada Mogador is a candlelit refuge perfect for a romantic evening. The ambiance is elegant without being pretentious, and the menu blends French culinary technique with Mediterranean flavors and the freshest local seafood. Highlights include buttery scallops, squid ink risotto, and a saffron-scented fish tagine. Pair your meal with a Moroccan wine (yes, they exist and they’re underrated) and soak in the quiet sophistication of this hidden gem.

Mandala Society: When you’re ready for a break from tagines and couscous, Mandala Society offers a breath of fresh air—literally and figuratively. This light-filled café with boho-chic vibes is an expat favorite for a reason. Think: avocado toast with za’atar, coconut chia pudding, rainbow buddha bowls, and crispy quesadillas. Open from morning through dinner, it's great for digital nomads, solo travelers, or anyone craving clean, globally-inspired fare with a wellness twist. Don’t miss their turmeric latte or beetroot smoothie for a healthy recharge.

Triskala: Quirky, artsy, and delightfully unpredictable, Triskala is a treasure trove for the culinary curious. The menu changes daily, depending on what the market yields and the chef feels like cooking—expect the unexpected. Carnivores and pescatarians will appreciate dishes like oyster tartare, sardine meatball tajine, and herb-crusted local fish. Vegetarians, meanwhile, are treated like royalty with creations like beet carpaccio, stuffed eggplant, or a tasting of five heirloom tomatoes, each prepared in a different style. A perfect spot to push your palate and celebrate Moroccan flavors in a totally new way.

Umia: For a true fine-dining experience in Essaouira, Umia is the place to book. Run by a French-trained chef, this intimate, candlelit spot in the Kasbah district is consistently praised for its elegant, globally-inspired cuisine and refined service. The menu reads like a greatest-hits list of land and sea: lobster tail with saffron butter, seared duck breast, smoked salmon tartare, and a daily catch prepared with seasonal vegetables and delicate sauces. With limited seating, reservations are recommended, especially for dinner. Perfect for special occasions or simply treating yourself.

Goats climbing the argan trees on the outskirts of Essaouira.

WHERE TO DRINK

Ocean Vagabond: For laid-back beach vibes and ice-cold refreshment, Ocean Vagabond is the perfect late afternoon pit stop. Set right on the sand at the far end of Plage d’Essaouira, this breezy beach bar channels major surfer energy with hammocks, driftwood decor, and reggae beats floating on the sea breeze. It’s an ideal place to kick off your shoes, sink your toes into the sand, and sip a cold beer or rosé while watching the kite surfers do their thing. If you're hungry, they also serve a solid menu of wood-fired pizzas, grilled fish, and Moroccan tapas. But even if you’re just thirsty, this is sunset hour done right.

Riad Al Khansaa: If the bustling rooftop scene at Taros feels too hectic—or too chilly—for your mood, Riad Al Khansaa offers a quieter, cozier alternative. Hidden behind the medina’s winding alleys, this laid-back riad has a charming rooftop terrace that’s ideal for reading a book, journaling, or playing a relaxed game of chess. The ambiance is peaceful, the seating plush, and the staff incredibly warm. The standout? Their house caipirinha—generously poured, refreshingly tart, and twice the size of your standard cocktail. It’s a great place to recharge in solitude or catch up with a travel companion over a slow, lingering drink.

Taros Cafe: A trip to Essaouira wouldn’t be complete without at least one evening at Taros Café. Perched right at the edge of the medina with sweeping views of the port and Atlantic, this multi-level venue is a beloved institution for good reason. Come just before sunset for cocktail hour, grab a seat on the expansive rooftop terrace, and enjoy the view as the sky shifts from gold to indigo. Most nights feature live music—from traditional Gnawa to jazzy fusion bands—creating an upbeat but easygoing atmosphere. The menu leans toward Mediterranean and Moroccan fusion, and while the food is solid, it’s the energy that draws people in. And if the sea breeze picks up, don’t worry—they’ll bring you a blanket on request so you can keep enjoying the vibe without catching a chill.

Colorful trawlers docked in Essaouira’s harbor.

Where To Stay

Dar Adul: A true hidden gem in the heart of the medina, Dar Adul offers a relaxed, artsy vibe that feels like visiting a friend’s home—if that friend had excellent taste in Moroccan decor and hospitality. The whitewashed walls are brought to life with bright, eclectic artwork, and the communal spaces invite conversation and comfort. The friendly, welcoming staff go out of their way to make you feel like family. In warmer months, the rooftop terrace becomes your personal perch, with views stretching out to the Atlantic and enough sunshine to spend hours lounging with mint tea. Rates from $49, including a simple but satisfying breakfast.

La Maison des Artistes: For those who crave sea views and soulful stays, La Maison des Artistes offers both in abundance. Perched on the medina wall with uninterrupted views of crashing waves, this intimate riad is infused with personal touches from its owner, Isabelle, whose artistic flair and attentive care elevate every stay. With just a handful of rooms, it feels peaceful, private, and deeply restorative—a perfect place to cozy up with a book, journal, or glass of wine for the weekend. Rooms are bathed in natural light, and the sound of the ocean is your constant companion. Rates from $110, including a hearty homemade breakfast.

L’Heure Bleue Palais: If you're seeking something more classic, elegant, and full-service, look no further than L’Heure Bleue Palais, a Relais & Châteaux property that combines old-world grandeur with Moroccan craftsmanship. Nestled in the medina, the hotel boasts five categories of rooms and suites, including family options, all built around a lush interior courtyard. The highlight? A heated rooftop pool with panoramic views, a rarity in the old city. Indulge in the traditional hammam, sip cocktails in the British-style salon, and savor a lavish breakfast buffet each morning. Perfect for travelers who want comfort and class with cultural immersion. Rates from $180.

The ultra romantic Hayate Suite. Image via Riad Chbanate.

Riad Chbanate: This beautifully restored riad is a showcase of Moroccan architectural charm, featuring smooth tadelakt walls, hand-laid terracotta tiles, and intricate cedarwood ceilings. Every room is thoughtfully decorated, but the Panoramic Suite on the top floor steals the show, with its private terrace perfect for stargazing or a quiet morning coffee. There’s a real sense of intimacy here—each space feels unique, and the vibe is relaxed yet refined. Located just outside the medina gates, it’s a peaceful retreat with easy access to the city. Rates from $135, including a generous breakfast.

Riad Dar Maya: Discreet luxury meets Moroccan minimalism at Riad Dar Maya, a five-room boutique stay that feels both contemporary and deeply rooted in local design. The sleek tadelakt walls, neutral tones, and generous marble soaking tubs create a serene, spa-like environment. Every room features a working fireplace—ideal for cooler nights—and the rooftop terrace includes a hot tub and hammam, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. This is the kind of place where thoughtful design and genuine comfort align. Rates from $125, with breakfast included.

Villa Anouk: A 15-minute drive outside Essaouira leads you to Villa Anouk, a tranquil country estate that’s well worth the detour. This seven-bedroom hideaway is surrounded by lush gardens, olive trees, and wide open skies, making it ideal for families, groups, or anyone craving quiet. Inside, the villa is tastefully decorated with exposed stone walls, terracotta floors, and artisanal Moroccan accents. There’s plenty of space to roam, whether you're reading by the pool, lounging on a shaded terrace, or enjoying a long, leisurely breakfast outdoors. Think of it as rural elegance with a coastal breeze. Rates from $150.

A room with a view. Image via Villa Anouk.