The Mod Guide to Block Island
The Mohegan Bluffs
A Place That Stays With You
I first fell for this rustic pocket of New England during a summer vacation with my parents 25 years ago, and my love affair only deepened after two college summers spent waiting tables and too many return trips to count. Block Island is a place that manages to feel both removed from time and vibrantly alive—where bluffs meet beach and weathered shingled cottages frame the horizon. When I visited last summer, pregnant with my third and traveling with my three-year-old and five-year-old in tow, I was relieved to find the island largely unchanged—still charming, still slow-paced—with just enough modern updates to make the return feel both familiar and fresh.
Twelve miles off the coast of Rhode Island and accessible only by boat or small plane, Block Island is an unplugged paradise. The vibe is beachy and barefoot, refreshingly more bohemian than Hamptons, with friendly faces and independent shops replacing mega-resorts and big-name brands. Flip-flops are acceptable everywhere, seafood is served fresh off the boat, and days are best spent beachside or wandering scenic trails.
Whether you’re coming for a long weekend or settling in for a full week, Block Island offers the perfect mix of low-key adventure, kid-friendly fun, and moments of adult serenity. Here’s everything you need to know to plan a stay on this idyllic island.
What To Do on Block Island
Abrams Animal Farm
A sweet stop for younger kids, Abrams Animal Farm is home to a menagerie that includes turtles, alpacas, camels, emus, and a pack of goats eager to be fed. It’s a delightful pitstop near town, and a memory-maker for little travelers.
Beaches
Baby Beach is ideal for toddlers with calm waters and easy access close to town.
Coast Guard Beach is a bit out of the way, but one of our beloved spots for a late-afternoon swimming or casting a fishing line from the shore.
Fred Benson Town Beach offers full amenities—restrooms, lifeguards, and a snack bar—making it perfect for families.
Mansion Beach, far down Corn Neck Road, is one of our favorite beaches to settle for the day. It’s less crowded and stunning, but you’ll need to pack drinks and lunch.
Scotch Beach stretches wide and long. Park on Corn Neck Road and walk through the dunes. Bring a lunch or pop back out to Corn Neck Road to grab a bite from the Block Island Pizza Truck.
Vail Beach/Black Rock Beach is for the adventurous. Park near Painted Rock and hike down. Rocky and not little-kid-friendly, but breathtaking.
Island Free Library
Check the website for a rotating schedule of storytime and family-friendly programming. A cozy spot for quieter days.
Clayhead Trail & Maze
Beloved by hikers and nature lovers. Follow the trail through meadows and coastal forests until you reach the “maze” and panoramic ocean views.
Empire Theater
On rainy days, this vintage cinema is a lifesaver. Catch a movie and enjoy popcorn under the glow of the old marquee.
Great Salt Pond
A calm, protected body of water that's ideal for paddleboarding, kayaking, and swimming. You can also rent boats or take a sailing lesson.
Mohegan Bluffs
One of the island’s most iconic sights and a must for every visitor. Descend 141 steps down to a dramatic, rocky beach beneath soaring cliffs. It’s wild and beautiful—and worth the climb back up.
North Lighthouse
Drive down Corn Neck Road and park at the trailhead. The walk along Cow Cove is scenic, shell-strewn, and popular with seal-watchers. Wear good shoes and bring a baby carrier if you’re toting a little one—it's a bit rugged, but an enjoyable activity for the whole family.
Rodman’s Hollow
This lush 230-acre preserve offers easy loops for little ones and longer trails for adventurous adults. Follow the winding green paths until they open up to sweeping ocean views. This is one of my top places for clearing my head and reconnecting with nature.
Rustic Rides Farm
For older kids and equestrians, Rustic Rides offers guided horseback rides through wooded trails and open fields, with some routes offering coastal views. It’s a peaceful, scenic way to experience the island from a different perspective. Advance reservations are recommended.
Mark and Max fishing at Coast Guard Beach
Shopping in Town
Bonnie & Clyde (where I worked in the summer of 2003!) carries stylish women's clothing with a beachy, curated edge.
Glass Onion is a beautifully edited shop featuring jewelry, pottery, and home goods—ideal for bringing a little Block Island home with you.
Marye‑Kelley specializes in custom decoupage gifts and home décor with a distinctly Block Island flair.
Minnow is a darling children’s boutique run by my friend Kelly—great for finding something special for your kiddos.
Star Department Store carries a treasure-trove of tees, sweatshirts, and island-themed gifts.
Southeast Light
An iconic lighthouse perched above a wide green field. Let the kids run while you soak up ocean views and cool breezes. One of my favorite things to do in the late afternoon after a stretch at the beach.
Twin Maples
Pick up fishing gear or an iconic “Eat Fish” tee—Twin Maples is an institution.
Where to Eat + Drink
The Old Post Office Bagel Shop
A morning staple. I’m a fan of the pumpernickel everything bagel toasted with butter, eaten at a picnic table under the sun.
Beachhead
Come for the lobster bisque, stay for the steamed lobsters served perfectly with lemon and drawn butter. This one is an oldie, but a goodie with a menu just varied enough to please every palate.
Captain Nick’s
Live music with local energy where I’ve spent many evenings dancing the night away. Check the schedule and come ready to party.
Dead Eye Dick’s
Excellent seafood with one of the most coveted covered decks on the island. Order the scallop tostadas and a ginger honey margarita.
Dune and Bluffs
A charming little stand on Water Street serving strong dark roast coffee and creamy gelato to go.
Eli’s
My top pick for dinner with inventive, fresh, and seasonal dishes. It’s indoor-only and doesn’t take reservations, so go early and be patient—it’s worth the wait. Don’t skip the tuna nachos.
Ernie’s
Open daily and serving all the classic breakfast hits—eggs, pancakes, coffee—with a no-fuss, diner-style vibe that’s perfect for families.
Ice Cream Place
A twice-a-day habit. Flavors rotate weekly, but the freshly made waffle cones are constant perfection.
Mahogany Shoals
A relaxed waterfront bar with live music every evening; ideal for a nightcap after a long beach day.
National Hotel
Skip the restaurant and grab a drink on the porch or head to the back for a seat around the firepit.
The Oar
I don’t think I’ve ever visited the island without a visit to The Oar—it’s usually my first stop off the ferry boat. Sit outside at a picnic table, sip a mudslide, and watch your kids play cornhole on the grass or grab a coveted spot on the deck overlooking New Harbor. Great sushi, surprisingly, and fresh seafood like peel-and-eat shrimp. This is where Julia’s love affair began.
Payne’s Donuts
Go early for warm, sugary perfection. They sell out fast.
Persephone’s Kitchen
A cozy coffee shop with avocado toast, egg sammies, acai bowls, and the like. There’s even an oversized chalkboard for kids in the back plus a smattering of outdoor tables.
Poor People’s Pub
Unpretentious, satisfying, and fun. A solid pub menu with excellent fries and cold beer.
The Spring House
The formal dining room and patio are lovely, but the real treat is golden hour—relax in an Adirondack chair with a cocktail while your kids roll down the hill overlooking the ocean.
The Surf at Block Island Beach House
Shaded porch tables, poke bowls, killer salads, and the kind of kids’ menu that actually works, this place is a blessing for beachgoers of all ages.
Yellow Kittens Tavern
Mexican on the deck by day, live music by night. Check the website for the music schedule and have fun!
Julia enjoying cocktail hour at The Spring House
Where to Stay
The 1661 Inn
A longtime favorite among returning visitors, this nine key inn embodies the warm, welcoming spirit of Block Island. Perched on a hillside with panoramic views of the Atlantic, it offers the kind of classic New England charm that feels timeless—white clapboard, breezy porches, and cozy rooms dressed in floral prints and antique furnishings. The hospitality here is personal and sincere, with staff who remember your name and breakfast that feels homemade.
The Atlantic
Set high on a hill above Old Harbor, The Atlantic Inn offers a peaceful, elegant retreat with some of the best views on the island. The property blends classic Victorian charm with thoughtful modern touches—think wraparound porches, breezy verandas, and gardens perfect for lounging with a cocktail or book. Rooms are individually decorated with a mix of antiques and contemporary comforts, and the onsite restaurant serves seasonal, locally inspired dishes in a setting that feels both refined and relaxed.
Avonlea and The Blue Dory by Block Island Inns
Two neighboring Victorian inns right on the beach in Old Harbor. The 10-room Avonlea is peaceful and romantic, with front-row views of the sunrise over the water. The Blue Dory, slightly more whimsical, features antique-filled rooms and cozy nooks that feel like staying in someone’s beloved old home. Both offer complimentary breakfast and an afternoon wine hour.
Block Island Beach House by Lark Hotels
One of the island’s most thoughtfully designed stays, this three-property boutique collection blends historic architecture with playful coastal style. Each building offers its own experience—together, they’re a welcome breath of fresh air in the island’s hotel scene. The heart of the Beach House, The Surf sits right on the water with panoramic views of Crescent Beach. Rooms are petite, but stylish, with natural textures, vintage details, and ocean breezes. The wraparound porch and café make it just as popular with locals as with hotel guests. Housed in a former Episcopal church, The Gothic features a striking, high-ceilinged space that has been transformed into a nine-room guesthouse with edge and character. Rooms feel cool and architectural, with original stained glass and a moody, artful vibe. Tucked just down the street, The Gables offers quieter rooms, some with private balconies, and easy access to both the beach and pool. The two-bedroom suites are ideal for families looking for more privacy while still enjoying full hotel amenities.
The Rose Farm Inn
Tucked just far enough from town to feel secluded, this pastoral property is surrounded by fields, wildflowers, and wooded trails. Hammocks dot the landscape, making it easy to disconnect. It's family-friendly, unpretentious, and especially lovely at sunset.
Spring House Hotel
A Block Island icon since the 1800s, the Spring House Hotel is the island’s grande dame—gracious, historic, and perched on a wide green lawn that rolls gently down to the sea. The main building, with its signature red roof and wraparound porches, is pure Victorian charm, offering 32 rooms that are classic, comfortable, and full of character. Out front, Adirondack chairs dot the lawn—perfect for sunset cocktails, live music, or simply watching the ferries glide into Old Harbor. For those looking for more space or a quieter retreat, the hotel’s satellite properties offer appealing alternatives. The Mott House, a short stroll away, features 17 rooms and suites with ocean views and a more residential feel. The Barn Apartments, ideal for families or longer stays, offer full kitchens and room to spread out while still enjoying hotel amenities. The Inn at the Spring House, a newer, more modern addition in a separate building, provides a boutique-style stay for adults only.
Spring House in New Harbor
The island’s newest hotel offering brings clean lines, updated interiors, and a slightly more contemporary style to the west side. It's quieter, a bit more tucked away, and great for travelers looking for something fresh without losing the island feel.
AirBnB
Traveling with kids or planning a longer stay? Block Island has a strong rental cottage culture, and Airbnb is the go-to for groups. Options range from breezy shingled beach houses to secluded homes with fire pits and ocean views. Just book early—inventory is limited and summer weekends go fast.
Our outdoor shower at the Ross House, available for rent on AirBnB
How to Get There
By Ferry
From New London: Take the 90-minute passenger ferry. It’s a large, comfortable boat with indoor and outdoor seating, and it accommodates luggage and bicycles (but no cars). Pro tip if you’re coming from the Northeast; take Amtrak to New London, which puts you just a short walk from the ferry terminal—one of the most convenient car-free options for getting to the island. From Point Judith: You have two options: The hi-speed ferry gets you to New Harbor in just 30 minutes (foot passengers only) and runs frequently during peak season—ideal for a day trip. The traditional ferry sails into Old Harbor in about an hour and allows cars, but you’ll need to reserve a vehicle spot well in advance or try your luck with standby.
By Plane
You can also fly to Block Island Airport (BID), a small regional airport on the south side of the island. Daily flights run from Westerly, Rhode Island (WST) via New England Airlines, and the flight takes just 12 minutes—perfect for a quick getaway or if ferries are full. It’s a tiny airport, so pack light and enjoy the scenic views on the way in.
Getting Around
If you’re not bringing a car (which isn’t necessary for a day trip or long weekend), rent a bike or moped when you arrive. The island is small and easy to navigate—there are no traffic lights, just stop signs, scenic roads, and plenty of ocean views. Taxis are also available near the ferry landings and some inns offer shuttle service.
