3 Days in Paris with Ava
Last month, Mark and I left the littles with my parents and slipped away to Paris for a long weekend. My stepdaughter, Ava, is studying abroad in Florence for the semester (lucky her!), so we jumped at the chance to meet up in what I consider the best city in the world. The food! The architecture! The style! I’ve been in love with Paris ever since I studied abroad there ages ago.
It was Ava’s first time in the city, so I planned an itinerary that offered a little structure and plenty of room for detours. I’m someone who likes to chart a walkable map by neighborhood—mornings in one arrondissement, afternoons in another—but some of my favorite memories always come from what happens in between.
FRIDAY
We landed at Charles de Gaulle and caught a taxi into the city. Normally, I’d take the RER—cheap, efficient, no nonsense—but with three of us, it made sense to opt for ease over frugality.
Our pied-à-terre for the weekend was Hotel Dame des Arts. Aptly described by Condé Nast Traveler as “the right stuff on the Left Bank,” this former Holiday Inn (believe it or not) has been redesigned into a stylish boutique hideaway with Eiffel Tower views from the rooftop.
After dropping our bags, we walked to Café de Flore for lunch. Breizh Café was a contender, but Flore won out for its classic menu and unmatched people-watching along Boulevard Saint-Germain. I always head straight for an outdoor table, order an omelette, and settle into the city’s relaxed rhythm.
In the afternoon, we followed the river to the Musée d’Orsay. It’s a museum I return to often—small enough to finish, beautiful enough to linger. Ava was taken with it. I could see that wide-eyed first-time energy in her as we moved through the rooms.
Afterward, we picked up pastries from the macaroon king himself, Pierre Hermé, and ate them in transit. I’d flagged Bread & Roses (and old neighborhood favorite from my time studying abroad) as an option for tea and scones, but momentum won out. We passed by Église Saint-Sulpice and had planned to walk through the Luxembourg Gardens, but I forgot the city locks the gates an hour before sunset. We missed it by ten minutes.
Back at the hotel, we took a break to rest. I always build in downtime on city trips—walking all day is wonderful, but it catches up with you.
Later that evening, we had drinks at Cravan. We’d reserved seats in Bar 1 upstairs—art deco and moody—but next time I’d try the Grand Bar on the ground floor or the more intimate third floor. The cocktails were tiny but complex, each one a little experiment.
Dinner was at Chez Julien, a romantic, softly lit bistro near the Seine that lived up to its reputation. Candlelit tables, classic French dishes, and well-heeled staff that know exactly what they’re doing.
SATURDAY
Like many hotels in Paris, breakfast was complimentary and generous—charcuterie, cheeses, freshly squeezed juices, and even chia pudding. We began the morning with a proper walk through the Luxembourg Gardens, calm and elegant in the early light. From there, we grabbed a taxi to the Arc de Triomphe and made our way down the Champs-Élysées. It’s not a street I’d typically prioritize, but for a first-timer like Ava, it’s worth seeing. We dipped into Zara (a success) and skipped the designer flagships.
By mid-afternoon, we’d walked through Place de la Concorde and into the Tuileries. We had timed-entry tickets for the Louvre, but even those didn’t save us from a line that stretched endlessly in the rain. We pivoted. Café Marly, tucked beneath the Louvre’s arcades, was a welcome shelter—elegant and slightly too expensive, but worth it for the dry seats and polished service. The food was genuinely good, not just good-for-a-museum-café good.
After lunch, we crossed to Île Saint-Louis. I’d planned for Berthillon ice cream, but the weather had other ideas. We opted for lattes at Noir instead, warm hands over cones. Then on to Île de la Cité, where Notre Dame—still under reconstruction—is as striking as ever.
We returned to the hotel to regroup before the evening’s main event: a Green River Cruises boat ride along the Seine. Despite heavy rain, it was still magical. There’s something about seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle from the water, even with a soaked poncho and slippery hands.
Dinner that night was at Tekés, a new Israeli-inspired restaurant from the team behind Balagan. The menu is entirely vegetarian—surprising, playful, and full of color. Even the cocktails were layered and unexpected. A standout experience in every way.
SUNDAY
We took the metro up to Porte de Clignancourt for the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. First stop: Marché Dauphine for vintage clothes, vinyl, and books. Then over to Paul Bert Serpette, a treasure trove of antique and mid-century furniture. It’s easy to lose time there, even if you’re only window shopping.
Lunch was at Bonne Aventure, a small corner restaurant that ended up being my favorite meal of the trip. The menu was compact—three starters, three mains—and every dish was precise, seasonal, and beautifully executed. The space was unfussy but hip, the staff warm, the wine list short but well considered.
That afternoon, we wandered the Marais. It’s one of the few neighborhoods in Paris where shops and cafés stay open on Sundays. We browsed boutiques and circled Place des Vosges, before heading back to the hotel to put our feet up.
That evening, we had an aperitif al fresco at La Palette, a Left Bank classic I return to often. Dinner followed at nearby Colvert, a modern bistro from French Top Chef alum Arnaud Baptiste. The room was cozy, the food smart without being fussy, and the rice pudding at the end—warm, creamy, unexpected—was the kind of dish that makes you rethink rice pudding entirely.
IF YOU GO: A FEW FAVORITES
Coffe at Le Fumoir
Lunch at Bistroy les Papilles
Shopping at Le Bon Marché and La Grande Épicerie
Visit the Musée Rodin
Coffee in the garden at the Musée Carnavalet
Afternoon tea at Mariage Frères
Observe Monet’s Water Lillies at Musée de l'Orangerie
Visit the Père-Lachaise Cemetery
Eat falafel at Miznon
Check out the beautiful stained glass windows at the Sainte-Chapelle
Stop by Patrick Roger for some artisanal chocolates
Watch the sun set from the steps of the Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre
Have a picnic at the Champs de Mars and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle (every hour on the hour beginning at sunset)
Cocktails at Sir Winston
Dinner at Astier
tiny tips, big difference
Unlike in the U.S., many of the top Michelin starred restaurants in Paris are closed on weekends. If eating at Arpège, for example, is at the top of your list, make sure you visit Paris on a weekday.
Many bistros, even casual ones, take reservations. Do yourself a favor and book both your lunches and dinners in advance. If you’re staying at a hotel, your concierge can assist. Alternatively, contact the restaurant by email or WhatsApp.
Parisians tend to eat later than Americans. A typical time to eat lunch would be around 1pm and dinner around 9pm. Plan accordingly!
Even if you don’t speak French, one of the best tips I’ve ever received is to approach a French person and ask “Parlez-vous anglais?” This translates to “Do you speak English?” It shows respect to at least ask if the person speaks English before making the assumption that they do (which they probably will).
